Feeding Station

Warwickshire Hedgehog Rescue

Helping injured, abandoned and orphaned hedgehogs.

Found A Hedgehog? Need Help?

enquiries@warwickshirehedgehogrescue.org

Feeding Station

MAKE YOUR OWN HEDGEHOG FEEDING STATION

A) Paving slab on bricks (Pic.1)

Putting the bricks on their sides, build a structure which is 2 bricks high with internal dimensions at least 12 x 18 inches.
Make the entrance by leaving a suitable gap of between 4-5 inches wide and high.
Make a tunnel inside the structure with a few more bricks to deter cats and birds.
Place a large tile, floor slab or another suitable item to make the roof. If it is a light-weight roof then place a brick, or other suitable weighted item, on the top to stop it being tipped off.
Place the food bowl around the corner out of reach of other animals and birds.

B) Plastic Box (Pic.2 - small box)

Use a plastic box turned upside down, about 12” wide, 18” long and 6” deep. The sides do not have to be solid but it is preferable to stop the food getting wet. No lid is necessary.
Cut one hole in either the long or short side around 4-5 inches square.
Apply reinforced tape over any sharp edges.
To deter other animals, place a brick outside the entrance about 4 inches away.
You can also make an alleyway of bricks leading to the entrance. Hogs don’t mind negotiating an alleyway but it will put off other animals.
Place a brick or other heavy item on the top of the box to prevent it being knocked over.
Place the feeding bowl at the opposite end to the entrance.

C) Plastic Box (Pic.3 - larger box - two bowls of food)

Place the box upside down. No lid necessary.
Cut 2 separate holes (4-5 inches square, one in each of the long sides at opposite ends. This will allow a second hog to enter or exit the station if the other is blocked by another hog.
Apply reinforced tape around any sharp edges.
You can use the pieces of cut out plastic (if still in one piece) to use as a flap (you will need to trim it down and then attach using reinforced tape, making sure it can swing freely. It will not put off the hogs but make deter other animals and birds from raiding the food. Alternatively you can use a section of firm plastic to act as a flap or use a brick outside the entrance as in picture B.
Place a brick or other heavy item on the top of the box to prevent it being knocked over.
Place the feeding bowls in the corners away from the entrances.
If the box is big enough you can also place a brick inside to act as a maze and stop animals with long limbs trying to reach the bowls.

Small plastic box

(Pic 2)

Typical types of supplementary food

Kitten biscuits (or small cat biscuits).
Tinned meaty cat or dog food, but be prepared to throw the food away daily as there will be a high risk of flystrike.
Hedgehog food that does not contain any dried fruit, peanuts, mealworms or sunflower seeds. Please note that hedgehog food is not currently regulated so the content of the food may be very variable.

Please note that mealworms, calci-worms and sunflower seeds are not suitable foods for hedgehogs. They can cause a hedgehog to suffer from metabolic bone disease by leaching out essential calcium from their bones. Peanuts are not suitable and can get stuck in a hog’s mouth or teeth. Suet contains high levels of fat which is not suitable.

They cannot digest fruit, vegetables or bread.

No milk please – they are lactose intolerant!

Placement of feeding stations:

As hedgehogs prefer to travel around the edges of gardens and in shrub borders, place the feeding stations somewhere nearby.

Place a shallow dish of water outside the feeding station.

A plastic plant pot saucer will be sufficient but it is a good idea to put a large stone in it to prevent it being tipped over.

Cleaning:

You can place the feeding station on any surface.

Hogs are messy eaters and will often soil the feeding area. Expect to have to clean the feeding area from time to time.

You will need to move the feeding station to a fresh area if there is repeated soiling of the feeding area.

Please do not use general household cleaning products to clean the feeding stations or the ground under it as they can be dangerous. Hot soapy water should be sufficient, or a suitable, animal friendly, cleaning solution.

Replace any soiled or wet food.

Paving slab on bricks

(Pic 1)

Large plastic box

(Pic 3)

Free Charity Hosting by Kualo

Charity number 1183331

Registered Address:

Hedgerows

7 Hill Wootton Road

Leek Wootton CV35 7QL

Warwickshire

enquiries@warwickshirehedgehogrescue.org

Warwickshire Hedgehog Rescue

enquiries@warwickshirehedgehogrescue.org

Feeding Station

MAKE YOUR OWN HEDGEHOG FEEDING STATION

A) Paving slab on bricks (Pic.1)

Putting the bricks on their sides, build a structure which is 2 bricks high with internal dimensions at least 12 x 18 inches.

Make the entrance by leaving a suitable gap of between 4-5 inches wide and high.

Make a tunnel inside the structure with a few more bricks to deter cats and birds.

Place a large tile, floor slab or another suitable item to make the roof. If it is a light-weight roof then place a brick, or other suitable weighted item, on the top to stop it being tipped off.

Place the food bowl around the corner out of reach of other animals and birds.

B) Plastic Box (Pic.2 - small box)

Use a plastic box turned upside down, about 12” wide, 18” long and 6” deep. The sides do not have to be solid but it is preferable to stop the food getting wet. No lid is necessary.

Cut one hole in either the long or short side around 4-5 inches square.

Apply reinforced tape over any sharp edges.

To deter other animals, place a brick outside the entrance about 4 inches away.

You can also make an alleyway of bricks leading to the entrance. Hogs don’t mind negotiating an alleyway but it will put off other animals.

Place a brick or other heavy item on the top of the box to prevent it being knocked over.

Place the feeding bowl at the opposite end to the entrance.

C) Plastic Box (Pic.3 - larger box - two bowls of food)

Place the box upside down. No lid necessary.

Cut 2 separate holes (4-5 inches square, one in each of the long sides at opposite ends. This will allow a second hog to enter or exit the station if the other is blocked by another hog.

Apply reinforced tape around any sharp edges.

Place a brick or other heavy item on the top of the box to prevent it being knocked over.

Place the feeding bowls in the corners away from the entrances.

If the box is big enough you can also place a brick inside to act as a maze and stop animals with long limbs trying to reach the bowls.

Typical types of supplementary food

Kitten biscuits (or small cat biscuits).

Tinned meaty cat or dog food, but be prepared to throw the food away daily as there will be a high risk of flystrike.

Hedgehog food that does not contain any dried fruit, peanuts, mealworms or sunflower seeds. Please note that hedgehog food is not currently regulated so the content of the food may be very variable.

They cannot digest fruit, vegetables or bread.

No milk please – they are lactose intolerant!

Placement of feeding stations:

As hedgehogs prefer to travel around the edges of gardens and in shrub borders, place the feeding stations somewhere nearby.

Place a shallow dish of water outside the feeding station.

A plastic plant pot saucer will be sufficient but it is a good idea to put a large stone in it to prevent it being tipped over.

Cleaning:

You can place the feeding station on any surface.

Hogs are messy eaters and will often soil the feeding area. Expect to have to clean the feeding area from time to time.

You will need to move the feeding station to a fresh area if there is repeated soiling of the feeding area.

Please do not use general household cleaning products to clean the feeding stations or the ground under it as they can be dangerous. Hot soapy water should be sufficient, or a suitable, animal friendly, cleaning solution.

Replace any soiled or wet food.